Keeping any animal at home is extremely difficult; keeping a sable at home can be compared with keeping a cat or a dog, but there are its own nuances. Let us say at once: breeding sables at home is an energy-consuming procedure, even if at first it seems easy (it is simpler just to keep the animal without breeding). These are not just cute, contact animals — they also love cleanliness and are distinguished by their intelligence. Anyone who has or plans to have a sable at home should first clearly analyse their own strength and finances.
An aviary is necessary for keeping a sable at home for a number of important reasons:
1. Safety of the animal. The sable is a nimble, strong and extremely active predator. In the open space of an apartment it can get injured (get stuck in narrow spaces). It must be locked up when left alone.
2. Creating a comfortable environment. The aviary allows: providing the sable with personal space where it feels safe; arranging a "nest" (a wooden house) imitating a natural shelter; organizing an activity zone (branches, shelves, shelters) in accordance with its natural needs.
3. Behaviour control. The aviary during the arrival of guests; temporary keeping in case of aggression or stress.
4. Compliance with natural needs. The sable requires: space for movement (minimum aviary size 120 cm x 70 cm, mesh 25x25 mm, wire thickness 2 mm); the possibility to climb and explore; a temperature regime (the sable is sensitive to overheating, optimal temperature up to +25 C, above that it must be cooled — a basin of water can be used).
Conclusion: the aviary is not a restriction of freedom, but a way to provide the sable with a safe, comfortable environment corresponding to its nature in domestic conditions.
The animal is quite active, and therefore it is important to have a huge territory — the sable must run regularly (it is good to buy a wheel like for squirrels, only slightly larger, a wooden one from 50 cm in diameter). In the room or on the terrace where you plan to keep the animal, carry out special preparation — to exclude going outside. If there is something valuable on the shelves — remove it. A room with flower pots? They should be moved, or the animal will knock them over (if you really cannot part with them, wrap the soil with cling film and fix the pots). When preparing the room, take into account the sable's curiosity — it can be interested in any interior object and will calmly climb wherever it wants, so there is no sense in hiding things. So that the sable does not get bored, buy it various plastic toys, baby rattles and balls. The more diverse the assortment, the better. Need to put the animal in a cage? Guarantee space and high-quality fixation. Sables are quite smart — they will quickly figure out how to open the cage. Also provide locks or child protection on all cabinets and shelves, as the little sable loves to stick its nose everywhere.
VERY IMPORTANT!!! When buying a baby you must understand that it is small and fragile! In nature it lives with its mother for up to four or five months! We take it away at one and a half months so that it gets tamed to the human who will replace its mother! At one and a half months the animal is small, poorly oriented in space, and it is very easy both to frighten it and to lose it.
About frightening: interact with it quietly, without sudden movements; never take it from behind, sharply, when it is sleeping or distracted; attract its attention and then take it in your arms slowly, talking to it, having previously let it sniff your hand; do not drop it on the floor and watch that it does not jump sharply from your hands; if the animal is frightened and tries to defend itself, leave it alone or place it on your chest belly-down, press it to yourself and let it calm down; by pressing it, and especially the pup's head, you prevent it from biting you and you have time for the pup to calm down! Talk to it, stroke it, and it will quickly get used to you.
About losing and health: the sable has excellent immunity and does not get sick with most feline and canine diseases, but several nuances must be observed to raise a healthy and active animal.
1. All pups under one year of age need increased doses of calcium and vitamin D. You can give a lot of fish, but 5 drops of vitamin D per week are necessary; it is easier to give it once a week. In addition to fish and cottage cheese, the food must contain vitamin-mineral supplements — the simplest are canine ones at double the dog norm per unit of weight. B-group vitamins are necessary throughout life (part can be compensated with feed yeast, liver and other products), but vitamin supplementation is mandatory — it is easier to give Catosal or Gamatonik (any vet pharmacy) at one cube per week. The sable is a predator and from time to time needs food that gives it the necessary enzymes and probiotics — mice, day-old chicks, unpeeled tripe, fresh offal.
2. The sable has strong immunity, but emergencies often arise — from minor injuries to digestive problems and pain syndromes. The pup in pain starts to panic, scream, thrash, and can drive itself to convulsions and brain or lung oedema; often by the time the owners reach the vet it is too late. Therefore keep a minimal sable first-aid kit at home.
WE HAVE A SPECIALLY DEVELOPED PREMIX FOR DOMESTIC SABLES AND A CALMING SUPPLEMENT FOR DIFFICULT CASES IN STOCK. Number SAP RU08587020: Vitamin A 3000 IU; D3 450 IU; E 105 mg; K3 0.48 mg; B2 9 mg; B6 10.2 mg; B12 0.06 mg; Niacin 15 mg; Calpan 14.7 mg; Folic 1.2 mg; Biotin 0.3 mg; Benfotiamine (B1) introduced; C 54 mg; organic Ca introduced; Se complex introduced; Fe total 30 mg (incl. Fe chelate 27 mg); Mn 9 mg; Zn 12 mg; Cu 1.8 mg; Co 0.075 mg; Mo 0.03 mg; organic P introduced; Antioxidant introduced. Up to 100% organic carrier. Add 5 g of premix per kilogram of feed. Shelf life 6 months.
First-aid kit: A) Corvalol — sedative for all kinds of hysterics: 5 drops per day with water for small ones, 10 drops after 6 months. B) Enterosgel and Smecta — one tenth of the human dose for poisoning and diarrhoea; children's No-butin (half a sachet in water, given by syringe during the day). C) Vaseline oil — for constipation or when it has eaten something wrong. D) No-Spa — 0.3 cube intramuscularly for hysterics and severe pain. E) Sulfocamphocaine — 0.3 cube intramuscularly to support the heart in poor condition. F) Gamavit or Gamatonik — 0.3 cube intramuscularly as a supporting agent (contains B vitamins and amino acids). For calming there is the homeopathic Phospasim — three drops three times a day; also the vet preparation Express Uspokoin per instructions per kg of weight. We also recommend analgin 0.3 per kg as a painkiller; hormones (prednisolone or dexamethasone) 0.1 for convulsions and oedemas; saline and glucose under the scruff 20 cubes up to 4 times a day. These are emergency preparations — use them in agreement with a doctor or breeder, and always go to the vet!
Every sable owner should have this first-aid kit! It is not a panacea, but it will save the animal's life for that half-day until you reach the doctor! Also keep saline and glucose at home — subcutaneously 5 ml glucose and 15 ml saline for dehydration, refusal of food and poor condition.
Further, especially when sables grow up, it is better not to take your eyes off them. Their claws are grip-prone and can scratch any person. Small sables climb up their owners' legs, so wear long trousers and a T-shirt before contact (it is good to accustom the sable to nail trimming from childhood — this gives a lot of bonuses).
Be sure to think in advance how your sable will live when you go away to rest. The animals, like dogs, perfectly understand who raises them — a calm friendly reaction to you is not a guarantee that the sable will treat a stranger the same way.
Separately about compatibility with other domestic animals: 1) Everything smaller and up to two times larger, and rodents, is the natural food of the sable — do not think you can make them friends! 2) The ferret is also natural food for the sable, although there are many cases when they live peacefully. 3) Cats are a separate topic: many people keep a sable with cats successfully — it all depends on upbringing. If you settle a young sable with adult cats, the cats will beat it at first; if you prevent conflicts, they will find a consensus; if you leave them alone and the cats often beat the pup, later it may chase and even strangle them. So at the first stage never leave them alone! Otherwise they coexist peacefully. 4) Dogs: small dogs — see the cats section; with hunting and large dogs the sable usually gets along (it is nimbler and can escape); while it is small, dogs should not squeeze and trample it; only jealousy towards the owner can arise, and if the dog is trained this will not happen.
About people in the family: the sable is smart and has a good memory — if someone nags or ignores the animal, problems may arise later; it may take a dislike and nip! The sable usually loves children and often protects them from adults. To avoid problems, everyone in the family must interact with the animal and love it; otherwise it is better not to get a sable at all!
!!!!!! ATTENTION: UNSCRUPULOUS SELLERS TRY TO SELL 25- OR 30-DAY-OLD PUPS! THIS IS MADNESS — HALF OF THEM DIE, AND THE REST MOSTLY BECOME UNDERDEVELOPED! THEY DO THIS TO SELL WILD PUPS AS DOMESTIC ONES! WE GIVE THEM AWAY STRICTLY FROM 45 DAYS ONLY!
The full reference text of the classic book on farm keeping of sables is published in the Russian version of this page for general understanding (it is not a manual).